Archived entries for travel

Welcome to the ROCK! Photos from Alcatraz

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Photos from The Grand Canyon!

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Let the roadtrip begin – going to Grand Canyon!

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the mind is grounded in flight

Last week after returning from a trip to the west coast to visit our family and do a bit of leg work for Holstee I was discussing with mike how inspired and empowered I felt.

Its incredible how a small diversion from the daily predictable flow of a sequential lifestyle can yield such inspiring productivity. Much of this is because we are often forced into a reactionary personal and professional life…but more on my concept of reactionary later – it deserves its own post.

Back to flying. Its funny, every time I fly no matter where I am going or what is happening at that point of my life I have a mini epiphany. The freedom from reality – no cell phone, no email, no RSS feeds, no twitter –> no information overload. It allows me to take a step back and look at myself (ironically – as I write this while flying) from above.

Its also a time that my imagination and thoughts run wild. I am currently flying to SF and decided to bring David Kelly’s ‘The Art of Innovation’ to read during the flight. I read the ‘10 Faces of innovation’ a while back and had been meaning to read this for a while but waited till I finished ‘Blink’. I am finding the book highly relevant but super challenging to make progress in. Every few paragraphs I get lost in a day-dream.

Dreams are great. In fact I think imagination plays a more critical role in success than people give it credit for. I was recently listening to Brian Johnson’s ‘Philosophers Notes’ podcast. He read a fascinating quote they outlined the following concept: If your mind can dream it than it is only natural that your body can create it.

I was momentarily stunted when I first heard him read the quote. I thought that it was surely for the birds and I began to think of examples, but the more I thought the more I was convinced. Its true, anything someone is able to dream of they are able to create. The difference is the details.

Lets look at history. A while back someone dreamed of going to the moon. People probably laughed. But once you break down the process down to the very last screw and nut which keeps the astronaut in place while taking off it becomes tangible – fantasy becomes reality.

On a natural, almost evolutionary, level I think its only natural that we can only think of what we can actually achieve. Our greatest talent among our companions in the animal kingdom is our mind. We aren’t great swimmers, climbers, runners, or even the best communicators, but we have a level of imagination and critical thinking which has yet to be seen at the same level in other species.

We must harness this talent. I am a true believer that every person has something they offer that they offer better than anyone else in the world has or ever could have. I don’t think these talents are instantly identifiable, and I am not sure that the need to be because indirectly you will use your talent as it is needed, by the people around you that need it.

You could have a mind wired to constantly smile, or a brutally honest analytical sense – in either case you are able to impact other peoples lives. I just hope people use their talents unknowingly or not to create a positive impact sharing positive energy with everyone they connect with.

VIVA LA FRANCE!

july 31.
Success! I didnt miss my flight!! I arrived in Paris on Tuesday evening, to find that the airport lost my baggage. To be honest I didn’t really mind, infact i found it quite funny. On Monday i actually watched Mr. Beans Vacation movie (Mr. Bean macht ferien) in German. He seemed to lose everything but it all worked out. I just thought of Mr. Bean and laughed it off. The woman at the service counter seemed much madder than I was, in fact i think she was mad because I wasn’t. I hopped on the train from the airport to meet a great friend from northeastern, molina. I met up with in at Chatlet les Halles, and we walked together to a restaurant called the Pigs Foot. It was a nice restaurant, not something i would normally spoil myself to when traveling on a budget, but its was great meal, and we met a bunch of his friends there. 4 mexicans, an irish, 3 americans, and one canadian, it was a nice international exchange. I ordered a french onion soup and a steak :)

august 1.
I got up early as the others in the apt went to work. the apt is beautiful. top floor and huge circle window that leads to a balcony. I spent some time in the morning enjoying the sun on the balcony and relaxing on my first day of vacation :)
In the afternoon I biked to china town and picked up food for dinner. Eggplant, garlic, coconut juice, hoisin sauce, chicken breast, and some rice. My friend ruppert from northeastern also flew over from Germany that morning, so when he came in; I walked around city with José and Ruppert. When we came back and I made a feast of a dinner and we started drinking wine.

After dinner we all went to the Eiffel tower and the wine kept flowing, and we snacked on cheese and baguettes. As enjoyable as it was cliché. We all had a great time and after seeing the Eiffel tower light up a couple times we made our way home.


august 2.
I got up at a decent hour and had a quick breakfast: baguettes, nutella, butter.
And we (me, ruppert, jose and jose’s roommate kaitlin) just spent the day exploring and walking around. We walked by the louvre, walked on champes de elyses , napped on a nice grassy area.

When we came home and i decided to cook another huge meal, this time spaghetti blognaise, we started drinking and had a mini dance session in apt. at this point it was us 4 plus Molina and a lady friend of his. Not long after we decided our dance moves would do better on a real dance floor so we went to a salsa club (la penya). We came home and ate the spaghetti leftovers, and as it turned out we hadn’t had enough dancing, so we started a wild dance off… it was mostly me and ruppert haha, it was hilarious.

august 3.
We got up, and did a quick clean up from the night before. And we made pancakes! It was a lot of fun living together as so many people because everything was done communally. So while some cleaned others made pancakes and breakfast was ready in no time.

Around noontime my bag finally came in! We walked down to the louvre and saw the mona lisa. Afterwords we walked towards notre dame and on the way we watched roller skaters do some wild tricks. We were in a rush to get home so we decided to ride the velo bikes, bikes that u can rent right of the street. It was a new and wildly successful new form of public transportation in paris. We got back and got ready for the part we were hosting in the apt. The party started off slow but it turned out to be one of the best I have attended. Despite the fact that we weren’t a huge group, we partied till 6 am it was legendary.

august 4.
We all got up slowly and Molina and I went to a nearby park where we relaxed and napped on the grass. We got back to the apartment and had long lunch, bagguete bacon and cheese. It was really nice. We sat on the balcony talked about everything (life, work, the past the future etc…) we have a lot in common so it was a really interesting conversation. After lunch we watched a wild documentary called ‘jesus camp’, that exposed the extreme and radically political voice many born again evangelical Christians are talking in America. Once the other guys got back we all went out for dinner on a touristy street. I got escargot! It was actually pretty tasty, but that may be because it was covered in garlic pesto and olive oil, three of my fave ingredients. i had orange duck as the main course, it was alright, nothing special. we walked around for a bit after and ended up on a little island between pont neuf where many Parisians gather for wine, snacks and friendly discussions and relaxing, we came back home after and were really tired, and crashed not to long after.

august 5.

I got up and took the subway to la’defense to meet the girlfriend of a german friend of mine. the food was nothing special, but the company was great. afterwards i walked for a couple hours, first walking by the arc d’triumph then winding through some streets and getting my self lost and acquainted with the city. i picked up some pizzas for dinner, and went back to the apartment. the whole day i was thinking about my idea for the inspiration café which I had come to realize early that morning and I was really able to develop the concept. i called my bro and filled him in, his excitement and confidence was huge support.

august 9.

I wraped up my week long stay in paris and overall it was fantastic. I got to see the eiffel tower light show, the mona lisa, notre dam, the bridges, the architecture, the food, and most importantly I got to meet some really great people. I also got the chance to watch an intriguing video that raises some really good questions. The film is called “Zeitgeist” I cant personally confirm all the claims are true but it raises some really good questions in any case. Also during this first week or so of my vacation I had a small epiphany. I have realized what project I would like to pursue as soon as I graduate from university. I wrote shortly about the idea on incubaker here, inspirations café.

After doing a final walk through of paris with kaitlin, robs roommate I got to bed around 2:30 only to wake up 2hrs later to make my way to the airport. I made it easily to Nice in southern france (being sure not to check any baggage this time). I took a bus to the main train station, a train to St. Raphael, then a bus to St. Maxime where a friend of mine picked me up and drove me to his families home. I was supposed to be in Lyon today staying with a couchsurfer, but there was appearantly there was a miscommunication so skipped Lyon and bought a flight directly Nice from Paris. It seemed to work out for the best as now I am with a food friend of mine from my past semester at ESB in germany. I got to stay at his familys vacation home in southern france giving me some more time with friends and time by the beach. So far it seems like paradise…

august 11.

I have spent the last couple od days and nights with chirs and his family (mother, brother, sister, father and grandmother) I found his grandmother particulary amusing. She was sweet and inquisitive. Mostly with chris and his brother we spent much time at their pool and the beach. Meals were home cooked and included lots of quiches which were great. I will need to try and cook them one time. The house was beautiful hidden away up a hill in st. maxime. The beach was down the road and you could see the ocean from most every room in the house. The pool was a nice compliment to the beach.

On Saturday morning (my last day there) chris and I drove out to st. tropez there as a large open air market that morning and I picked up a cheese plate and net to show my gratitude for the families hospitality. They seemed to like it and started using it right away. I also bought a plate of paella for myself. It tasted great but I wasn’t a huge fan of the swindler that sold it to me.

That afternoon, another friend of min from germany, Edwyn, met us at Chris’s house. I had to leave chris’s because his family was leaving the next day. It was great there and I was very comfortable but it was time to pack up and head out but where exactly, I wasn’t sure. I got a ride with Edwyn to St. Raphael where I could get a grain to wherever I needed. I decided to go to Cannes. I had heard good things about it, plus it was in the Mr. Bean movie I had recently seen so I decided to go. I picked up a ticket and while waiting for the next train I went and grabbed a baguette and a cheese I become fond of while at chris’s called Comte. I also grabbed a couple of carrots.

I arrived in canne around 9pm’ish without a plan or a place to sleep. I saw some backpackers sitting in the trainstation and asked them if they had any reccomendations for a hostel in the are. Unfortunately they told me they didn’t know, as they had stayed at a camp site. But luckily they had a book with an address for one hostel in it, I quickly jotted down the information and was on my way. I hit the streets and asked a few people if they knew the address to no luck. Nobody recognized the address or had heard of a hostel. I saw a sign for a hotel that said it accepted baggage since the lockers at the train station were closed. I had asked about 5 hotels however all were fully booked and wouldn’t accept holding my bag overnight. After some pleading the last hotel agreed to hold my bag, on the condition that I come pick it up promptly at 8 AM the next morning. I was hesitant to give my bag away, but eager at the same time. It would have been safer behind the counter then with me if I were to sleep outside on the beach or street.

After dropping my bag I was much more comfortable walking around and was able to appreciate Cannes a bit better. The city seemed to have a lively nightlife. I walked by some really mind-blowing yachts. Similar to the ones I had seen in St. Tropez. I walked the boardwalk of the beach until I found a nice place to relax and possibly sleep.

august 12.

So that first night in cannes wasn’t the best. I feel asleep in small intervals. Walking up to the slightest sounds. It was also very cold sleeping on the cold and damp beach without anything to keep me warm. Also the sand wasn’t as comfortable or as giving as I had imagined. I woke up before my alarm which I had set in order to get my bag in the morning. I got up around 5 AM, bored and cold waiting for the sun to rise. I walled to the train station and fell asleep there for a bit. It was warmer than the beach but their were some unsavory characters there, intoxicated and some hostile. I got my bag around 8 am as promised and decided to I would stay in a hostel that night, in order to give myself a fair chance to appreciate the city. I was able to get a map in the morning when the train station opened and I was able to track down the hostel based on the address I got from the travelers. I was able to find it easily but the owner wasn’t there. I tried the phone number on the door a couple times and eventually I was able to reach him it was about 10 am. And he requeste that we meet at the hosteal at 12 am. I walked around the neighborhood a bit and found a bench and sat and read for 2 hrs. I returned and met the hostel owner. I decided to stay despite the fact that it costed a bit more than I had anticipated for a very basic and unequipped hostel. I dropped my bags and eagerly hit the beach. Where I spent the day reading, sleeping and swimming. On my way back to the hostel I picked up some groceries. In my room at the hostel I got to meet to Italians that were staying there, Francesco and Roberto, both really cool guys. We walked around Cannes a bit and eventually made it to the casino, where we decided to play some 10 cent slot machines. Where we are I was able to make a bit of cash. After we left we walked by some street performers including one man holding a snake. I decided to pet it in order to further my comfort with snakes. Its skin was wildly smooth. We got back to our room where our roommates a French couple were already sleeping.

august 13.

The next morning I got a French SIM card for my cell phone and used the internet. Then I picked up some chips and salsa (my favorite beach snack) and I made my way to the beach, where I met up with Francesco, Roberto and Roberto’s family who had an uncle in Cannes. After the beach I got my bag from the hostel and began my trop the meet a couch surfer. His profile page said he lived in Nice so I hopped on the next train, and called him from the train. While on the phone I learned that he lived in Frejus, which was in the opposite direction from Cannes, a town near St. Raphael where I was previously. It was at this moment that I was reminded of 2 important lessons. First, communication is important, and saves time, energy and money. Had I called him first it would not have been a problem. And the second lesson was more important. Since I of course knew communication was important I realized that learning a lesson once for the first time is a cheap cost. But not learning from previous mistakes and remembering lessons is expensive. I got off at the next stop and switched trains.

I arrived in Frejus, what seemed like an empty ghost town, as I was the only one from a full train that had gotten off at that stop. I walked till I saw a gas station and asked there how to get to the campsite where Keveen, the Couchsurfer I was staying with lived. I told the gas station attendant I was going to walk and he told me I was out of my mind but that it was good that I was sporty enough to walk. As I was walking I decided it wouldn’t hurt to try thumbing it. A couple of minutes later a guy in a convertible pulled up and I hoped in. He asked my where I was going, but I didn’t know how to respond in French so I just showed him the map. And pointed to my destination that the gas station attendant had circled on a map he had given me. I tossed my bag in the back seat and we were off. He asked me a million things but only in French, and I tried my best to answer in the minimal French I had learned to this point. At one time he put me on the phone to someone; I believe it was a girlfriend of his. That was fun too, but no idea what they were saying.

We pulled up directly to the campsite and I called Keveen. He had made dinner, some sort of warm cereal from Peru with some vegetables and ginger. We at quick as he was in charge of sport activity at the campsite (a little summer village of about 1,50 people) and that night there was a foosball tournament. I played a little but the few skills I had picked up at work in hamburg were no match. Plus in southern france they played with many different rules and with a cork ball instead of plastic.

After dinner I met some of the other employees of the campsite, and we watched a belly dance show that the campsite had organized and then we went to the campsite disco, nothing too wild. We were able to get to bed early.

august 14.

I got up around the same time as Keveen. My plan was to go to Monaco for the day. I tried find the bus stop he mentioned but no luck and there were no pedestrians to ask. I began walking in the direction of town hoping to walk by the bus stop. I began walking a bit and the road turned to a something similar to a highway and I had not yet seen a bus stop, so I decided I would try to hitchhike once again. This time I used a thick sharpie and a scrap of paper to write out my destination ‘ST. RAPHAEL’. While holding the sign, and walking backwards I saw the bus needed fly by. So I began to run after it. Despite having made eye contact with the bus driver he refused to pull over. While walking and trying to get picked up I realized my chances increased significantly as I tried to make eye contact with each driver. Drivers began to give hand gestures that they were going a different direction or their car was full etc.. Not long after a guy slowed down and picked me up. He was really nice and the same age as me, 21. He didn’t speak any English so I was forced once again to venture with my French to avoid a silent car ride. He was a sort of mason and pointed out his home as well as where he worked while driving. He drove well out of his way to drive me to the door of the train station despite all of the heavy traffic downtown.

The next train to Monaco was an hour later so i went to the internet shop to check my mail and I went to the grocery to pick up some food for the day. The train ride was longer than I had expected and it was a hot, sticky and sweaty ride on the packed train, but I appreciated the time on the train because it gave me to update my journal as well as enjoy a baguette with a garlic cheese spread I picked up at the grocers.

Once in Monaco I wandered around and found myself at the entrance to the Monte Carlo casino, a cool looking place and judging by the amount of tourists it must have been a city center. I wandered around a bit more and enjoyed the sites. Beautiful people strutting their best, a family driving around in a drop-top Bentley everyone inside covered in so much gold and diamonds u could barely notice anything else. Astonishing yachts lined the ports, not normal ones either, these were the real deal. These here had helicopter pads, pools and just about anything else you could imagine. I wandered around a bit more and found myself at a palace at the top of a hill. A top the hill there were also nice gardens a cathedral, some government buildings, and most magnificent was the view over Monaca and the port.

I decided I would head back to the campsite so I went back to the train station and bought a ticket. The next train left in an hour so I though I would risk it and run to see if I could find a sports store to get some snorkeling gear for the next day. While walking I saw a nice looking hotel, the ‘Hermitage’, with lots of tourists standing around I thought it was worth a look to see what all the hype was about. Out comes a couple coming to grab their Bentley from the valet and with a strong Texas accent the wife exclaimed: “Ha you see that! A finger print” as she rolled her eyes. The husband laughed as if he was used to her making a big deal out of nothing. I continued walking closer to the front door where a Buggatti was parked. I had never seen one in person before, it’s a pretty wild beast of an automobile to say the least.

I was about a block from the hotel looking for snorkeling gear when I saw a familiar face turn the corner. It was a friend of mine from NU! She had studied in the same program as me but did her studies in Italy where as I did mine in Germany. We were both pretty shocked by the random meeting. She was on her way to meet her family coincidentally in the same hotel I was walking away from. We went to a nearby café and had a quick drink while we exchanged stories of our experiences abroad and our future plans. I think we were both extremely shocked that in all the places in the world to run into someone we meet each other in Monaco. It was really nice to see a familiar face and share a coffee with someone.

Walking back to the train despite the fact that I was wearing one of the few shirts I had in rotation in my backpack, and I was returning to sleep on the couch of a mobile home in a campsite in a remote town, and all I had to eat that day was a baguette and some cheese spread, despite all those things just because I was so happy to see a familiar face and enjoy a friends company I felt richer than anyone else in Monaco.

I got back to Frejus and while waiting for he bus I began eating some more of what was left of cheese spread with some more bread I picked up earlier in the day. Back at the campsite, Keveen and I spoke a bit before I went to bed. I went to sleep not much later.

august 15.

The next morning I got up, ate a quick breakfast and decided I would walk to the beach. On the way I stopped at a fresh fruit stand where I picked up one of the best nectarines of my life. I also stopped at a sports store to check out some snorkeling gear. They were selling a kit with a snorkel, mask, and flippers in one package. However my sophisticated nose didn’t fit comfortably in the mask. So I had to opt for a higher quality mask and I bought the snorkel separately. I decided to skip the flippers as they were expensive and I figured they would be a hassle to travel with. I also picked up a cheap watch. I had been traveling without a watch thus far. It was nice not worrying about the time, but I dint want to risk missing a train, plane or meeting up with someone and I rarely carried my phone with me.

I followed my map to get to the beach, which was about 6km away. I got a little lost so I may have walked closer to 7 or 8km by the time I got there. I relaxed on the beach; reading, sleeping, and snorkeling then repeating the process. I also snacked on some chips and leftover salsa I had from Cannes.

On my way home I wanted to pick up some groceries so I could toss together some sort of dinner for Keveen but I had forgotten it was a national holiday so most stores were closed. I was able to find a little grocery store where I picked up some pasta and sauce. I also stopped at the same fruit stand for the morning to get some tomatoes. I also ended up purchasing a watermelon, some oranges, and a bundle of grapes. I got back to the mobile home and a couple of minutes later Keveen arrived.

We cracked the melon and ate quickly as he had invited me on a ike e was guiding that evening. With Keveen as the guide 3 cars left the campsite for a 3 hour hike. It was really incredible; the view from the top was amazing. After the hike we all had a glass of wine from Keveens favorite spot. We drove back and once home we quickly started making the pasta. It was tight cooking quarters in the mobile home kitchen be operated on the same wavelength. We are both huge fans of fresh garlic, and threw together a great sauce with peppers, onions, balsamic, some sugar, and a boat load of other spices but no salt as Keveen has completely removed salt from his diet, for ethical and health reasons. After dinner a friend, or rather a lady lover of his came over. I had met a friend of his who worked with him at the campsite, Malvi. I used her internet before going to bed at a decent hour.

august 16.

The next morning keveen and his lady friend were eating breakfast and I joined them for a croissant, some French bread and fruit from the day before. I went with him and his friend into the city center of Frejus where we met his friend’s sister. We all sat down and grabbed a drink at a nicely located café in the center of town. Keveen had to return to the campsite for work so I walked ot the beach were I spent another relaxing day reading, napping and swimming. I am currently in between two books; “reminiscences of a stock operator” and “the story of philosophy” today I had the philosophy book with me. Recently this book has been very interesting as I am on the chapter about Spinoza, a Jewish Philosopher who was excommunicated from the community for his “anti-Jewish” philosophies. The chapter touched upon the Diaspora and the struggles of the Jewish people. It also mentioned other great Jewish philosophers like Maimonides. In the afternoon I began my walk home, stopping in the city center for a sandwich. After a quick bit I decided to stop at the same café we were at earlier in the morning. I sat down with an amazing espresso and updated my journal.

I made it back home as keveen was about to head to one of the campers homes for dinner. I was invited by Elodie and Malvi, two other staff members that I had become friendly with in the past couple of days. It was a small but nice diner. After dinner I was able to once again use Malvi’s internet. I used it for a while, booking a flight to Paris from Bordeaux for the same day I was planningn on meeting Niamh in Paris. I also confirmed the couch I was planning on surfing on for the next couple nights, and sent out requests for couches later in the trip. Keveen was at dinner for most of the night so I spent most of the time talking with Elodie and Malvi. Another couch surfer came late at night to surf Keveens couch. He was a German from Bremen and and shared some wild and somewhat discomforting stories of his first couch surfing experience in Cannes. He slept on the couch in Keveens, and I slept on the couch in Elodie’s mobile home.

august 17.

The next morning I got up got my stuff ready and hoped on a bus to the train station, then a train to ‘Six Four’ to visit with my friend Edwyn and his girlfriend. We went on the ‘wild coast’. It was a bit cold and the weather was a bit rough for cliff diving so we went snorkeling instead. Great snorkeling though. The water was beautiful and we were able to see a lot of fish. We drove to the beach and walked the boardwalk. It was really nice, much fewer tourists than the other cities I had been in by the beach. We walked to another town called Sanray and got some Panini like sandwiches. I had been craving a Panini since I saw someone eating a really good looking one in paris over 2 weeks ago. I was actually able to fill that craving earlier this morning before boarding the train to Six Four, I had gotten a chicken tomato pesto mozaarella. This time I got a much better sandwich called the Americain, steak, cheese, with French fries, salad, tomato, and barbeque sauce all brought together by the power of Panini. This sandwich was definitely in the top ten list of best ever sandwiches. We walked around a bit more then back to the car and they dropped me off at the train station where I got he next train to Toloun, a couple of minutes away. The couch surfer I was stating with sent me a message saying he would b e at the beach until 8:30 pm so in Toulon I sat down at a nice a nice café by a large beautiful plaza and enjoyed another delicious espresso, wrote out another idea I came up with will staying in the mobile home for a new innovation in the real estate market.

I used a map I picked up when I arrived at the train station in Toulon and I walked to his apartment. Steph was extremely nice from the very beginning. Showing me around the apartment, he told me that for my stay I should feel at home. If I wanted to hang out with him and his boyfriend I was welcome to or if I wanted to explore the city on my own I was welcome to as well. He even did my laundry and prepared dinner upon my arrival. Soon after his boyfriend, Ludo, came over. Steph was an impressive furniture designer that as between jobs and Ludo was in the navy. Living so close to morocco, there seemed to be no shortage of hash. We watched “Trainspotting” then the guys retired to their bed and me to my futon.

august 18.

The next morning I got up around 11 am and walked around the town with Steph. He had tons of knowledge about the town and the architecture that he shared with me. I offered to cook some Persian food for lunch/dinner. In the afternoon steph and I gathered all the groceries I needed and we came back and I cooked a huge pot of bademjoon and rice. We all seemed to really like it. We then walked over to the beach to watch an air show from the French air force. It was pretty cool. After, on the walk home we stopped for a quick drink and some people watching.

Back at stephs apt we chilled out for a while talking then we decided to watch the documentary “The Yes Men”. It was a pretty cool movie about some activists against the WTO and other agencies manipulated by the rich elite. We dove back into the bademjan leftovers and watched some 9-11 movie.

august 19.

The next morning when I awoke ludo and steph had been up for a while and prepared a big breakfast of bread, croissnts, jam, cheese coffe, juice melo and pudding. We took off to the beack which was nice and rather quiet. I did some snorkeling, napped, and we talked for a while, and I was able to learn a bit more French. After the beach we drove to the top of a mountain in Toulon so I could see a panoramic view of the city. It was a one way road up and down the mtn. and very curvy, and close to the edge. The view was amazing. We came back and Steph made dinner. Some croque monsieur sandwiches that were toasted and lightly fried, they are like grill cheese but with more toppings and meat inside. For desert Steph had prepared something like bit-sized French toast pieces, but with yeast in the batter which made them extra fluffy. During dinner we watched “rocky horror picture show” a movie I hadn’t seen in years. I forgot how weird that movie was.

august 20.

When I got up Ludo was already gone for work. I organized my stuff and ate a quick breakfast. Because I forgot my camera cable at home I used the opportunity to back up my camera with the memory card slot on Steph’s computer to a data CD. Steph drove me to the train station and made sure I was able to get on the train ok to Marseilles.

I called Cathy the couchsurfer I was planning on staying with. She told me to take bus number 10 to a certain stop where we could meet at a certain church so I could drop my bags with her at work, which was really nice of her. The tourist office at the trainstation was closed and nobody seemed to have heard of a bus 10. but eventually I found another tourist information office where I got a map and told which subway I needed to take in order to get to the bus.

AS we discussed I met cathy at the church and she was super nice. I dropped mymy stuff in her car and we agreed on a meeting place for that night when she got out of work, she mentioned that she knew a great place for dinner and that there may be another couch surfer staying with her as well. I took the bus and metro back in to the city. I walked around a bit and saw some cool graffiti on the side of a building I wanted to take a photo of, but my camera read “No memory card” I was sure I had taken it out of Stephs computer so I was really confused and quickly opened the memory card slot and saw that the card was indeed there. But it turned out that the computer had damaged it. After fiddling a but I found if I wedged the card just a bit deeper it worked but it need to be kept somehow at a certain angle. The area I was in was not the safest so I decided I would find a restaurant or café where I could comfortably sit and fix the camera somehow. I figured I would be able to sit down in Mc Donalds and fix it with out being hassled to buy anything. But once inside the temptation over came me and I got a Royal cheese. It came in handy however as I used the box from my burger to loge the memory card in place. I also got a chance to sit and update the journal.

I walked around Marseilles a bit more, going through Panier, the old part of the city which is famous for its cute and narrow roads, but I had been warned to be aware of my camera as it as a poorer area and not too safe in some parts. I met up with Cathy and Johan, another couchsurfer from Netherlands. We met up with an English friend of Cathy’s and together we went to a nice cheap little couscous restaurant. They gave you a plate of couscous and they continuously refilled a bowl of sauce and vegetables that the table shared. And each person chooses there meat. The meal was really good and unbelievably priced. After dinner we all went for a drive through Marseilles. Cathy’s friend Paul, narrated some of the highlights as we drove by them. As we drove we even made it to Le’Corbusier an apartment building that was made famous for its innovations in the use of space and technology. Steph had told me a lot about the building when I was in Toulon. It was dark however so I hoped to return during the day. We got to Cathy’s apartment which was really nice and had a huge balcony about half the size of the apartment and it was the top floor so it had a great view. We sat outside and talked and chilled enjoying the city lights. Then we went inside and shared a delicious sweet wine from Bordeaux that some other couch surfers had brought her.

august 21.

Johan and I slept till around 10ish, and then we enjoyed a coffee on the balcony. The morning was calm and relaxed. We left the apartment a couple hours later. We hopped on the bus into town and we got some sandwiches for lunch. I again chose the delicious Americain with bbq sauce. We then walked to the beautiful church atop a hill on the other side of town called notre dame. It had a huge gold statue of the virgin mary which is said to watch over the city and harbor. It was pretty neat because u could see it from most anywhere I the city, including from cathys terrace. We decided to walk to the beach which we could see from the viewing points of the church. We climbed over a rail and were able to get right by the water on some large rocks. It was nice quiet and relaxing. The only others there were fisherman. We relaxed and talked there over some beers we picked up just before. Johan was a chef so we were planning on cooking for for cathy and her friend that night. So we went towards the market to pick up some ingredients. In total we spent about 10 euros. Not much I thought to feed 4 people but johan seemed confident. We got a hog pog of vegatables and fruit and two fresh fish. We weren’t sure exactly what we were going to make but johan seemed to enjoy what he called “freestyle” cooking.

In the end the meal turned out amazing. A salad with cold pasta, and a great freshly home made dressing topped with a filet of each type of fish and freshly fried potatoe chips as a garnish. And some fresh fig placed for taste and design. It was great because I learned how to gut and filet a fish something I have been yearning to learn since I fell in love with the Italian fish restaurant in Hamburg. That night Cathy stayed at her friends and she trusted her apartment to Johan and I.

august 22.

We woke up around 10 again and got up and ready slowly enjoying the comfort of Cathy’s apartment. I through together a lunch from the leftovers. Since Johan is an inline skater we went to “the pool” a world famous skate park by the beach. We spent a while there, it made me really miss skateboarding. I took a ton of pictures and admired the really little kids do impressive tricks. There was one kid who must have been about 8, flying up and down the ramps on his razor scooter, it was amazing.

After the skatepark we went to the check out “Le’corbusier”. Steph had told me so much about it, I was glad to see the outside and parts of the inside sharing the info I learned in toulon with johan.

Outside le courbusier I said goodbye to johan as he was off to hitchhike to Barcelona. I sat outside the bldg and inspired by its presence and what I had learned about it I drew some sketches. Cathy picked me up there then we picked up her 4 kids and 2 of their friends. Cathy prepared a pesto tortellini and for dessert we had some pears with melted dark chocolat atop. The food was great but there was a bit of a language barrier throughout dinner so it was a bit hard to communicate.

august 23.

I got up early and felt fresh from the get go. Cathy was still home so I got some bread and pastries form the bakery and we ate a quick breakfast together before she went to work. She was going to paris for the rest of the week and weekend. Cathy was such a kind, gentile and trusting person, she said I could stay in her house while she was on vacation if I needed. Her kindness and generosity were inspirational.

After cathy left for work that morning I used the net for a while, booking flights to morocco for when bezzi arrives. I took the bus into town to walk around the city for the last time. I found myself walking through the African/Arabic markets. I enjoyed the open markets and the interesting characters that it attracts. I got a half pizza with vegetables which they rolled up and gave to me as a sandwich, at 2 euros it was a delicious and cheap lunch. I then walked to the train station and picked up a ticket for an overnight train to Biarritz that left at midnight and arrived at 10:30 am. I walked around a bit more picking up some fruits and veg to make a salad when I got back home.

I got home, made a huge salad, cleaned up a bit and made a little card for Cathy expressing my gratitude. I went to the bus stop with all my bags to find out that the last bus left at 9:17 about an hour and half earlier. I asked someone nearby how long it took to walk to the train station. He said it was about an hour. If he was right I would make it just quick enough to grab some food before the train left. So I started walking, knowing the vague direction. I was not really scared, but I was pretty positive I was going to get mugged. The whole time before getting to Marseilles people had warned me of it, but at this point I didn’t have a choice. Even if I had extra cash, there wasn’t a taxi in sight. So I walked with my bags for about an hour asking for directions when I didn’t recognize the areas from the bus. Eventually I came to an area I recognized but I still had some distance to walk. I picked up a sandwich at a shop near the train station; I also grabbed some fries with it, figuring a heavy meal would put me to sleep better on the train. I slept for a little but I spent most of the night rolling around trying to get comfortable.

august 24.

I arrived in Biarritz and waited for a while looking for a friend of JB, the couchsurfer I was staying with. He was at work but told me that he was sending a friend to come and get me. After a while JB called me and asked where I was and I told him ‘in front of the doors at the train station in Biarritz”. Turns out he lives in St. Jean de Luz. It was only 15 mins away but the next train was in an hour and a half. So I grabbed the bus which left a bit sooner. Waiting for the bus I talked to an old lady, well at least I tried to, but there was a bit of a language barrier, but she seemed to enjoy hearing me struggle to get a simple sentence of conversation across.

The bus got me to Saint Jean de Luz where I met Valerie a couch surfer that had stayed with JB before and they were now friends. Not long after JB was home for his lunch break and he cooked some spaghetti carbonara. After lunch he went to work and valerie went to do laundry so I explored the town for bit. I saw a huge gathering of people so I went over to what all the fuss was about. It turned out Sarkozy, the French president was coming to this small village today. Then I remembered that while half asleep a man in the train station this morning had mentioned that to me as well. I hung around a bit and was able to see him which was an interesting surprise. There were many protesters against modified fruits and vegetables. The French secret service did not seem to allow any freedom of speech at all they violently and aggressive ripped up banners and pushed around protesters unnecessarily as their demonstrations was completely peaceful.

Some woman had apparently gotten some close up fotos of the behavior of the secret service and they tried to rip the camera from her neck. She must have been about 50 yrs old and was there with her family, I could not believe how aggressive they were. Once they had the camera one ma looked through her fotos while another rummaged through her bag.

After the presidential sighting I walked through the small town making it to the beach. On top of a nice grassy hill I laid down my mat and sat down to enjoy the amazing view of water and cliffs. It was truly amazing I fell asleep and woke up 2 hrs later and began back home to met up the others. JB had whipped up a great dinner with a salad niciose, burger meat, potatoes and some vegetables. I learned about his green thumb and not long after we went out as there was a huge free beach side concert. First we picked up Rachel a couchsurfer who had stayed with JB her first time there. Very interesting, she had biked from England to Spain and was now on her way back home. Going it all alone I was really impressed on her initiative, confidence and bravery.

We got to the concert and shared some drink. Theo group on stage was “People de Herb” there were pretty cool. I had not heard of them before but apparently they are pretty famous. Next up as famous female DJ from the area but I forgot her name. the coolest part was the concert was directly on the beach, a couple of feet away was the quiet crashing of waves, people could even go for a swim if they wanted. The atmosphere was amazing. To ensure a clean beach, after the concert the organizers offered large garbage bags with the incentive of prizes to those that were able to fill their bags with trash, needless to say the beach was most likely left cleaner after the concert than it was before. After the concert we dropped Rachel at her bike and she had to bike about 10k to her couch where she was staying. The rest of us got to bed around 3ish.

august 25.

We all got up late, some time after noon. We enjoyed a nice breakfast , toast, chocolate chip bread, butter, blueberry jam, great cheese, orange juice and coffee. JB had to go to school to finish his theses so on his way he dropped me and Valerie at the beach in Bidart, between st. jean de luz and Biarritz. Unfortunately there were no wave but we relaxed and napped on the beach. We walked a bit then we got the bus to Biarritz. Where we used the net quickly before meeting JB in front of the Palais Hotel, an amazing hotel right on the beach. We grabbed sandwiches for dinner. I got a chicken sandwich with red peppers, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and French fries inside. Very satisfying. After we drove out for the second night of the concert. As we arrived Xavier Rudd was playing. He is a really impressive musician who plays a lot of instruments really well and as he did at the concert, all at the same time. In between Xavier and the next act we meet some of JBs friends. And during the next act we meet up with some of his friends that we had seen at the concert the night before really fun and cool people, most of them couchsurfers as well. We were all pretty tired so after the concert we went home and directly to sleep.

august 26.

We got up earlier than the day before and enjoyed a similar and equally enjoyable breakfast. JB had to return to work on his thesis so me and Valerie went for a walk by the coast. We found an amazing place to sit on a Cliffside to enjoy the amazing view and environment. We sat and chilled for a while, both of us eventually falling asleep. After a while we awoke to the feeling of being melted by the sun so we moved to a shadier spot before walking back. We had wanted to pick up some groceries but everything was closed so I whipped up a dinner with what I found. I made a pasta with fresh sauce of onions, garlic, walnuts and tomato and some random spices. While dinner was cooking we played cards and enjoyed some aperitifs’. With dinner we popped a bottle of wine, and after we talked and chilled before going to bed.

august 27.

I got up and had breakfast with Valier as JB was gone for work. After I got ready and packed my bags. I got a ticket for the next train to Bordeaux which left at 16:40. I had sent a message to the host I was to be staying with yesterday requesting he send me his address via SMS as I wasn’t going to get a chance to check the internet again, so far no response, but hopefully soon…

I arrived in Bordeaux around 7pm and still no response so I decided I would go to a cyber café and check my messages and possibly find another place to sleep last minute. Luckily I had a new message from the guy I was planning on staying with, the message had his phone number, a huge relief. Ramesh and mom were online so I got to chat with them which was really cool especially since we both were using web cams. I walked to my hosts place on the way asking a burger delivery guy if he knew the street, he wasn’t certain but knew it was really close. I walked on and saw I was one street away. At the apartment I did not know the last name of my host so I looked up and I saw a man with his head out of the window on the 3rd floor. I shouted up in French, “wheres guillame?!” meaning which buzzer was Guillames (the first name of my host). He didn’t understand but after a couple exchanges someone popped there head out of the second floor window and the man on the third laughed and said “Ca Guillame!” I went up and dropped my bags, and showered as it was a long and sweaty walk from the train station.

Guillame luved in a cool apt. I noticed the apartment buildings were not larger than 3 or 4 stories and most being only 2. it made for a really nice setting and gave the city a really nice and human feel. A couple of doors away lived Guillames good friend but he was out of town, however he had agreed to let a couch surfer stay at his place in his absence. So Guillame had fiver a german traveler the keys to the apartment. Not long after we all went to one of guillams friends apartments. There were about 10 of us. First we ordered pizzas then the guys and I hung around for a poker game. All his friends were really nice. It was all in good fun playing poker and having lots of laughs, nothing tooo serious. We got back to guillams place and he showed me some spots on the map then we called it an early night.

august 28.

I got up and walked around. I made my way first to the tourist information to see if I could get into a winery tour that day. There was a bus that left 2 hrs later so I walked through the historical streets of the city seeing many nice statues the mirror fountain and grabbing a tuna sandwich for breakfast/lunch. I walked around a nit more and found myself in an African drum ship. I wanted to learn about drums in anticipation of my trip to morocco where I was thinking I may be able to pick up a nice drum. The man who made them didn’t speak any english but his friend did, so she translated for both of us. Not long after he started playing the drums it was really amazing watching him. I just love hearing the drum played like that. I left the store and realized I was a bit lost. I asked a nearby security guard how to get back to the tourist info and he told me I needed to take a bus and lot if confusion so I just asked him to point in the direction of the tourist office and I started walking.

Me and about 30 others loaded the bus for our winery tour. We went first to a small winery and the man giving the tour was part of the family that had lived in the chateau since before the revolution. He showed is around the chateau, the vineyard, the vineyard and the over 200 acres of cultivated land, then the winery where he explained the process of wine making. His tour ended with a nice wine tasting session. It was really neat and I learned a lot. Before leaving I picked up a bottle of the red Bordeaux wine.

On to the next chateau and winery… This one was much larger in terms of production and the size overall. Currently in the chateau lived 4 generations, all living in their own area of the property. They produce over 400 thousand wine bottles a year. They store there wine underground in caves and cellars. The largest cave they found only 20 yrs ago accidentally when a brother was wondering across the property and found a huge underground structure. Before we left I picked up a bottle of a dry white wine.

I began to walk back to the apartment thinking if I saw an interesting place to eat I would stop. I walked a bit out of my way trying to find a special place to eat but instead found myself a bit lost. But it gave me the chance to walk through some interesting areas.

I was pretty close to the apartment when I saw a familiar face and he shouted “Hey man, I know you!” it was the delivery guy I asked directions from the other day. We talked for a little before I asked him to recommend some good cheap food in the area. He said “well you know, I work right there at ‘Speed Burger’ its good and I might be able to use my discount for you” I agreed and we walked together. So ‘Paca’ and I entered Speed Burger where he asked his manager to give me a discount. There seemed to be a tempered and unfriendly exchange going on between Paca and his manager. Then Paca turned to me and said “C’mon lets go!” I had a feeling things didn’t go well and as Paca translated and explained to me what happened… “I cant believe it” he said, “I don’t believe he just fired me like that”. My stomach shrunk. Turned out the manager didn’t want to give me a discount and Paca didn’t like his lack of hospitality to a student traveler, so he talked back to his manager. The manager didn’t appreciate Paca’s fresh mouth and simply said, “you no longer work here.” I was in shock from the random string of events, but Paca assured me that his boss was a jerk, and the job was bound not to last. He then continued to reassure me that he would find me a good place to eat. He honestly seemed more concentrated on finding me a meal than anything else. He told me he knew another restaurant where he used to do deliveries. It was an Indian restaurant, great food but a bit expensive, but he said he would talk price with them and that they were really friendly. I told him that it was no problem, and that I could easily get a cheap and tasty sandwich from any corner shop but he insisted that he would take me somewhere good. On the way we had a nice discussion about his life and about the city. After a while of walking we were almost back at the tourist information, and he had bumped into a friend of his and introduced me, and we kept walking. We turned off onto a side street and he said “Oh there it is” as he pointed to an unmarked door. “that’s the back door”. The restaurant was called Taj Mahal.

We walked through the back door, then a couple more rooms and doors until we made it to the kitchen. It was a nig kitchen with a couple of chefs and a dishwasher. Paca said hi to everyone and introduced me. He explained that I was looking for a good meal but that I didn’t have too much cash. One chef brought out a fresh piece of Naan filled with cheese and gave it to us right from the fire pit where he was cooking them. Paca said he was hot so he went outside. I hung around talking and snacking. I watched and learned how they made the bread. They packed some rice, curry, Naan, and some other toppings in a couple Tupperware packages and requested no money. They were from Sri Lanka and all were extremely nice. I exclaimed my gratitude and met Paca outside.

I thanked Paca again for taking me there, and eagerly told him about the bread making process that I had just witnessed as we walked back. He told me that he had seen it before, and that was why he left; he went outside in order for me to talk and get comfortable with the chefs. To watch and learn from them. He knew if he were also there I would stand by him and talk with him but had he left he knew I would talk with the chefs and learn more from them. I was blown away by his foresight and generosity. We walked back to near the apartment and exchanged information before splitting ways. I got back to the apartment where guillame and his friends were hanging out. Not long after we went to the pool at his girlfriends apartment complex. We had a good time in the pool and went out for a quick dinner of kebab sandwiches before retiring for the night.

august 29.

I got up and guillame was already gone for work. I packed my bags and heated up the Indian food from the night before, which I didn’t get to eat as we went directly to the pool. I ate half and packaged the other half in a container to eat later on my way to the airport. I walked to the train station, stopping to use the internet first. Once I got there I had to wait a while for the airport shuttle. Once it arrived I realized I had no spoon or fork for my Indian food. I had to eat the food before reaching airport security, and there was the risk of nowhere to get a spoon before security check ins, so I ran to a café in the station and grabbed some plastic utensils. Back at the shuttle no one was boarding so I assumed that they weren’t to load on yet. After waiting for a while I stood idle as the bus driver got on the bus and closed the door. I was convinced that everyone around me would load on the shuttle once we were allowed to. The bus driver began to drive away and that when I thought that perhaps I was the only one talking the bus. I ran after the bus and the driver who had seen me standing as she looked around and closed the door laughed out of shock and confusion that I waited till she drove away to board. In my race to get the shuttle I jumped right into a huge puddle soaking part of my shoes. I was the only person on the entire coach bus.

We arrived at the airport for my 18:00 flight at 17:00, well on time. When I got to the ticket counter to check my bag with the wine in it, they told me I was not on the 18:00 flight. I stood there confident and reassured them, but unfortunately I had not printed out my confirmation. I figured there was a glitch that they would soon figure out so I was not too worried. After a few phone calls it turned out I was supposed to be on the 13:00 flight. I had mistakenly misread my 3 for an 8 when I read the flight time from my notebook. The woman behind the desk was really nice and after laughing about the mix up for a while I was glad but surprisingly not surprised when she got me on the next departing flight free of charge.

Arriving in Paris I was comfortable in the familiar setting. For the first time in a while I was confident which trains to take and how to get directly to my friend Jose’s apartment. At the apartment was Jose, his girlfriend and the other roommate and a friend joined for a nice ratatouille and couscous dinner. I had almost mistaken the time for Niamhs arrival in Paris, but I made it just in time at the bus shuttle to meet her. We returned to the apartment, this time there were more people and we all drank some wine and shared stories till early in the morning.

august 30.

Jose, his girlfriend, Kaitlin, Niamh and I went for Chinese food for lunch. I got a shrimp red curry and rice, and Niamh got rice noodles and we shared both. Both were delicious. After we split with the group and Niamh and I hit the town. She only had a short time in Paris and I wanted to show her as much of Paris as possible. We took the subway to the Louvre and from there we walked down champs de lyese to the Arc d’ Triumph then we got over to Montmare to meet an Irish friend of hers. We talked and walked to a nice little crêperie where the 3 of us got some nice crepes. Ager we walked all together to Moulin Rouge and there we separated from Niamhs friend. Niamh and I went to the Eiffel tower where we sat on the grass for a little before deciding to go up. We hiked up the first two parts and enjoyed the amazing view and the impressive structure. We took the subway back to the apartment and put on some warmer clothes, snacked on some chips and I grabbed the bottle of red that I got in Bordeaux. We walked to the subway popping the cork enroute. The wine was great. We took the subway from “Maison blance” where the guys lived to near Notre Dam. We got a pita gyro for dinner and shared it while walking to the little island under pont neuf. We finished the bottle and had a really nice and relaxing time. We couldn’t get the subway back as it was already closed so we diced to walk it. A good hour or two later we made it home by about 3 or 4.

august 31.

The next morning Niamh picked up some bread and pastries and I got the chance to cook something I had wanted to cook for a while now, Patatas y Huevos. I chopped and boiled some potatoes until they were soft they I lightly fried them before adding some whipped eggs. After it was ready we made sandwiches. Niamh made some fried onion and tomato to add to the mix and we topped the baguette sandwiches off with some cheese. It made for a perfect breakfast. After breakfast we helped Jose clean the apartment, as it was his last day there and before he moved out assessors were coming to check the place out. We did a serious cleaning then we went out to use the internet. We got back and made some quick sandwiches from leftovers that were in the fridge before leaving for the train station. The trains were more expensive than we expected so we got the cheapest one which left a couple of hours later and arrived in Luxembourg around midnight. While waiting for the train we grabbed a quick burger from “Quality Burger”, a burger place I had been meaning to try. We returned to the train station and boarded towards Luxembourg, marking the end of my month long stay in France.

RECAP

In one months time I got a chance to really explore the culture and lifestyles of many different types of people throughout France. I was much better exposed to ‘normal’ life by staying with couch surfers opposed to hostels. I have a long list of people to add to my address book, some people that left a lasting impression that I surely will not forget. Including everything I spent around 1,000 EU; a cheap price to pay for an experience of a life time. For the most part I always slept well, and most definitely ate well. And with one bag of clothes and another small pack with books and food, I learned what I really needed to live, and what was important to buy. I was also surprised in my comfort in the language after a month, my speaking skills were far off from a first grade level, but I was able to understand people well. France is surely one country I will return to.

Family Eurotrip!

This posting was long overdue on my part, but luckily Mesh was nice enough to write down some memorable moments from our family eurotrip in may. The memories were so great and she was able to capture them so well in this email summary she sent me i figured i would post it….Thanks mesh!

EURO TRIP JOURNAL- 5/07

TUESDAY
- Wake up, 5am.. Mehri then Answering service
- 7:40am departure, breakfast: Bagel. Breakfast again on the plain- Newark: 1 hr delay
o 4 boys with PSP- 3 white, 1 pink. “Mike” contact irritation- keeps playing. Asks “David” if HE has drops- drops contact on floor. No backpack.
- Flight to Frankfurt: movie, video games, music, dinner, tried to sleep, no seats

WEDNESDAY
- Arrive Frankfurt - White hanging seats in airport
- “You can’t bring luggage here”- waitress in restaurant in airport
- Train to Hamburg. Reserved seats- at table
- Meet David at McDonalds, with chicken in a bag- Hauponhof
- Dinner: Rice, chicken stir fry, tea
- Walk- Sternschanze, riot, gelato
- SLEEP

THURSDAY
- RAIN
- Mom and Ramesh with David on train to work. Tried to exchange travelers checks/ dollars to Euros- unable-
- Bakery smells amazing!
- Dad ASLEEP
- Walk around- Find tour
- Lunch with David @ Italian Restaurant. Tap water?
- Double decker tour- private- harbor- 10 Euro returned to family
- Spices museum- Saffron- Persian/ Afghan rug
- XING- David’s German has improved since internship
- Harbor again. “We are almost there” Boat. Stairs. I’m looking for a special place. Turkish. Afghan. Turkish. Yum!

FRIDAY
- David work
- City Hall- LA reporter/ photographer- Rainydaytraveler.com- Golosangeles.about.com
- Brunch buffet- with a view- Shopping- Hair salon- Persian family
- Jochen made us dinner- Salmon trout- garlic-sabzi. Salad/ yogurt dressing. Potato. White asparagus. Stories. Stories.
- St. Pauli… Reeperbahn!

SATURDAY
- Depart Hamburg- waited until 11am for David and mom to come home. Only to learn that the car they wanted (Audi wagon- automatic) which can not be taken anywhere we want to go.
- Tom/tom … Navi… Khanoom KoocheekPlease observe the speed limit”, “Continue until further instructions”
- Bird vs windshield, windshield wins. David is a traumatized.
- Feri’s house- Persian store- is this carbonated? Let me check
- Konigs Alle- Champs de’lysse of Germany
- Pari’s brother- Ali- airport security
- Dinner- Sabzi- Bademjoon

SUNDAY
- Mothers Day
- Breakfast with Feri (Goly) and Mahmood
- Drive to Frankfurt to pick up Mike from airport. Changed car. Immediately before changing car: CLEAN car! spill cookies everywhere, clea AGAIN. Possible Tom-Tom not working.
- Festival of tall buildings,  street fair and sausuges!- Champagne with Vertu phones…
$76,000
- Café- croissant sandwich/ tuna salad
- Goethe museum
- Drive to Munich
- Intern working at hotel
- Mom, Ramesh, Mike Falafel, Dave asleep - Tight Hotel

MONDAY
- Mom and Mike out to get bread, feta, tomato, muffins
- David and Ramesh tried to go to gym… non- existent
- English Garden- “Azizam!”
- Town Hall, fruit stand, city hall,. david cant resist fruit he is allergic to.
- Turkey, cheese sandwich, paprika Pringles, yogurt
- Drive toward Munich concentration camp- closed (Monday)- walked around- saw church. Went to other side—Entrance to camp
- Drive to Salzberg (Austria)- BEAUTIFUL drive- happened upon Ferrari show- pulled in- we thought it was a hotel…. or wedding?!
- Begin hotel search…- Found hotel. Room across from spa.
- Spa, steam room, sauna, relaxation room
- Pizza 12am

TUESDAY
- Organic breakfast buffet
- Sound of Music Tour bus o Chocolate banana cake o Strudel o Chocolate o Dad’s soup, with noodles al dente
- Bought sugar pourer/ Ramin’s keychain
- Church where Sound of Music was filmed
- Gazebo- closed because 80 year old woman broke her hip jumping from bench to bench
- Walked in rain- saw fountain from Sound of Music
- Mozart’s birth house
- Drum Festival
- Crazy Monkey for dinner
- Mike and Dave looked for Brewery (Monk) walked around

WEDNESDAY
- Organic Breakfast- Fresh OJ o Ricotta cheese croissant o Croissant Hot/ fresh out of oven!- Daf- left at hotel
- Festung Hitensalzberg - Fortress- Ramesh, Mike, Dave walked up stairs- Mom/ Dad took the train o 600 year construction
- Lunch at Indigo o Beef Curry o Tuna fish sushi o Spinach and feta/ Tomato mozzarella
- Modern Art exhibit (Ramesh, Mike, Dave) 9/11 exhibit
- Grocery shopping
- Drive to Vienna - Search for hotel… Congress/ club o Nh 2 rooms- OLD croissant 
- Park by Persian/French/ Italian embassy

THURSDAY
- Sun/ rain
- Police gave directions to Hopshlong (sp?) Palace— Schönbrun summer palace
- Call Jamshid- plan to meet for dinner
- Lunch (best of trip!)
- Dessert/drinks
- Gardens
- Appel Strudel show o Ramesh graduated!
- Train to Jamshid and Jewyandeh o Burned church- Jamshid found us hotel o 3 children?!
- Dinner at Kosher restaurant
- Ramesh, Mike, Dave back to embassy to pick up car- gelato on the way (David- “greatest Nougat ever”, Ramesh- raspberry)

FRIDAY
- Sunny!
- Breakfast buffet- left car in garage
- Hapsburg Art Collection o KISS by Klimt o Judah
- Belvedere- good view o Maria Teresa – 16 children - Garden
- Falafel- outside- Turkish owner
- Gelato
- Drive to Bratislava, Slovakia
- Hotel search  o No TV , 1st floor, no thank you
- Radisson - No dinner
- Mike and David casino- tripled $, saw fight,  hotel concierge offered drugs and women

SATURDAY

- Sunny!
- Breakfast outside
- Walked around- statues o Man at work
- Dad played $700 violin
- Mike, David, Dad took nap on park bench
- Mom and Ramesh bought lunch
- Boat ride/ lunch o River
- Bad Gelato 
- Mike/ Dad played chess- life size board
- Drive to Prague
- HOT restaurant

SUNDAY

- Breakfast at Café Liberty o Panini o Eggs o Crepes
- Jewish quarters o Spanish o Pincus (mom got lost here!) o Cemetery o Burial ceremony o Jewish traditions
- “Best chocolate ice cream in Prague”
- Ramesh, Michael, David- walked- pizza, chocolate
- Roohi, Mansoor- supermarket o Orange, cucumber, melon.  No weight… no purchase!
- Dad- Chinese to-go
- Mike/ Dave- appetizer
- Ramesh/ Roohi- Walked.. Italian dinner.. table next to us
- Mike/ Dave- Pizza—home @ 12am

MONDAY
- breakfast- pizza
- Persian mom with daughter from Irvine
- Gift shopping
- Drive to Frankfurt
- Depart 3pm
- Achieve global conversation… o Think beyond the moment o Lead by example o Focus on the issue, not the person o Maintain the confidence and esteem of those around you o Achievement o Order o Power o Recognition

TUESDAY
- Depart for home - luggage incident…

pesach in hamburg

On last Thursday evening it settled in that I may not find anyone to share Pesach with this year in Hamburg. I got pretty bummed but eventually shrugged it off, deciding I would hopefully find something over the weekend. On Friday at work I emailed the chabad to see what they had planned for Passover. I received a cold canned response “see attachment.” The attachment was an invitation for a Passover Seder at the Marriott in Hamburg boasting shmora matzo, wine, and a full meal for 40 euros. I was frustrated by the impersonal and disgustingly commercial idea of a Seder. I left work on Friday with a weird goal; I was in the search for some Jews.


I had 2 leads. 1) I had walked by a building near my apartment that looked like a synagogue. 2) I had seen a guy walking with a kippah walking in the same area near the university twice before. I left work and headed to this area near the university. However there were no kippah wearers in sight. However being in that area I remembered there was a jeweler that sold lots of Jewish jewelry nearby. i rode my bike over and luckily they were still open. I asked if they knew a synagogue in the area. She wrote a street name on a piece of paper and told me it wasn’t too far. I made my way near the synagogue. I saw a car barrier and a police post and a couple of guards walking around a building with a large metal fence surrounding it. In Frankfurt the temple was also surrounded by security however this temple was far less inviting. At the entrance outside the gate I was approached by a man in a leather jacket “what do u want?” I asked if the temple had any plans for Passover and what time Saturday services began.

The next day on Saturday I got up and dressed for services bringing my passport with me as recommend to me by the man at the synagogue the evening before. At temple I was frisked and my passport checked closely before I was admitted. The men’s section was about half full and I sat alone in an aisle and absorbed the environment for a while. I heard someone speaking Persian but wasn’t sure who. I then noticed a man a couple rows up had a Siddur that was half Persian and half Hebrew. I decided I would try and talk to him after the services.

Two old men came and sat net to me. Directly net to me was David also known as Emannuel. Most of his family died in Auschwitz. He has a couple cousins in Israel. He learned English during his time living in America after the war. Not long after another man came and sat on the other side of me. His cologne smelled Persian but I didn’t want to make any assumptions. A man came up and greeted him in Persian. I was shocked, there seemed to be many Persians in this small congregation. I quickly asked how many Persian families there were at the temple. He answered that unfortunately now there were only about 10 Persian members. He right away asked me where I was from, and if I had a place to spend the Seder; inviting me to share the Seder with him and his family. I was glowing with happiness after feeling so accepting in what was previously an unwelcoming and intimidating temple. We agreed to meet at temple on Monday at Passover services.

I continued to speak with David who had seemed to have a lot he wanted to share with me. He began with his quiet German accent “I’m not too religious, after the holocaust I only believe what I see…I believe there are good people and there are bad people….religion doesn’t matter…I met Germans during the war that better than our own, better than the Jews.” He told me he had a girlfriend. Which I was surprised to hear considering his age. He went on to say she wasn’t at temple because she wasn’t Jewish, but she was open minded. After the service David saved a seat for me at the Kiddush lunch between him and another elderly friend of his. We sat at a table full with elderly people including an interesting woman who was half Chinese. David seemed to be especially close friends with her. He continually offered to get up and get her more food despite the fact that it seemed to require so much energy for him to stand up from his chair and walk around. Every time she would say no to the offer but after a couple minutes of insisting she would fold and accept the offer. David would come back with a plate full of food. The entire interaction was very cute. After the meal I told David I would see him on Monday and rode my bike back home.

On Monday evening I picked up an orchid from the florist and went to temple. I saw Mr. Soumikh the Persian gentleman that invited me for Seder, and David both sitting in their same seats and went towards the seat between them that I sat in last time. I sat next to and was excited to begin speaking with David again, unfortunately however he didn’t remember who I was or that he had spoken to me. Mr. soumikh introduce me to his son. After the service we drove outside the city to his home. I was introduced to the entire family. A daughter and two sons. The youngest about my age. The daughter was married to an Israeli and had two daughters of her own, the younger daughter was 4 yrs old and absolutely adorable. She had me laughing the whole time. The family was nice and it was a nice reminder of home. They even did diyanu and of course it was the uncle who made a special request not to participate and get oniony who got it the worst. The dinner was full with duck, lamb, chicken, rice, goulash, soup, and vegetables. The charoset was also really good. After the meal I was invited again for the second nights Seder, as well as to a rock concert one of the sons was participating in and a party at a bar which the other son was hosting. Just shows how easily one question “how many Persians are in the community?” can lead to the opportunity to see so many interesting things and meet so many new people.

italia

a concise recollection of my recent italy trip….

22. January

2:30 pm at the airport; let the excitment begin. Aside from buying my flight tickets, booking the hostel for my first night in rome and printing out some info on italy (namely the entire wikipedia article on italy) I haven’t really considered this 8-day trip that I am about to embark on. While saying my goodbyes to some friends in Reutlingen a friend asked my what time my flight was. The entire time i knew it was at 14:55 (3pm’ish) but the whole time I was thing 5pm for some reason. At about 1:30 pm i realized my flight was about to leave in an hr or so…i would still make it to the airport in time but this would cost me an extra 50 euros, as the bus is free but would not get me there as fast as a taxi. Considering I didn’t want to spend more the 500 euros for the whole trip 40 euros was a huge setback.

Arrival in rome. I found the hostel (2 ducks hostel) the woman at the desk informed me that my room was actually in another building. We waited for another girl who was staying in the other building and together we walked a couple of blocks to the apartment building where the hostel had a couple rooms. The other girl staying at the hostel (Lynn) was Thai/Sweedish. She was living/studying in rome and living in the hostel until she was able to move into her apt. She had a huge piece of heavy luggage which I carried for her to the other bldg. In the room lynn and I met phillip from finland. Lynn had cooked a meat sauce spaghetti with olives, corn, and onions. We all ate together, the meal was actually quite good. After dinner the 3 of us decided to go for a walk. We walked to the Trevi fountain, a monumental tourist attraction, with impressive sculptures and fountains. Lynn left early to go see about an apt. and Philip and I continued our walk. We stopped in the ‘julius ceasar pub’, a bar recommended by the woman at the hostel. After a quick drink we called it a night.

23. January

Got up at 8ish and had a quick breakfast. Nuetella, sliced bread and Nescafe. I left my bag in the room and went to the main office of the hostel in the other building to request to stay another night in the same bed. I was told that the hostel was booked solid, and I needed to leave my room but that I could leave my bag in the main office. I went back to the other building and grabbed my bag. On the way out I saw a key-copying place next to the hostel. I removed the front door key from the keychain and had it copied. I figured worse come to worse, I could sleep on the floor in the lobby of the building should I not be able to find another hostel. I returned the key and left my bag in the hostel.

I didn’t want to waste time finding a place for that night so I decided to get to the some main sites. I headed for the Vatican. I took the subway to ‘ottaviano’ and walked the last couple blocks to Vatican City. First I went to Basilica s. Pietro (st peter’s cathedral) the largest church in the world and from where the pope makes his public appearances. I went up 300 plus steps to the top of the Cuppola where I got a view of all of Vatican city and into rome. After I went to the Vatican museum, the worlds largest museum complex. The musem was very impressive. As I was about to enter the Sistine Chapel I saw a man with a kippah on giving a tour. I figured he was giving the tour in Hebrew and I went closer to listen. The tour turned out to be in english but from a jewish perspective. In this private tour there were 3 young female yeshiva teachers from nyc (Marissa, Rivka, and Jaime) after listening with fascination for 30 mins as David, the tour guide spoke I was eager to hear more. I asked the guide if he minded, he said it wa no problem and told me to ask the girls. I did and without enthusiasm they said ok. One of them remarked “we are paying for this you know”. I quickly offered to chip in, I was very interested in the guides knowledge and was willing to pay for it. The seemed more welcoming as I began to make small chat. The tour guide spoke about how many parts of the Sistine chapel were riddled with links to Jewish things. How Michelangelo included ideas of from the Talmud and midrash into the paintings to spite the pope because he didn’t want to paint, he wanted to sculpt. The hidden images of showing michaelangelo’s study of torah and science despite the rulings against dissection and the likes during his time. The tour guide also pointed out the a painting depicting the siege of Vienna that took place on sep 11, 1863. not coincidentally the the same day bin laden chose for the attacks. (the story also goes that the story for the creation of the croissant was at the battle of Vienna, but after a quick bit of research http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodbreads.html#croissants the truth of this story is uncertain.) He told us how Pope turned saint, John 23 and how he single handedly saved the lives of 10s of thousands of jews during the holocaust (after being exiled for the current pope at the time for trying to help the Jewish people) by illegally forging baptism papers for many people. And he changed the wording of ‘damned jews’ in every Christian holy book to ‘our brothers and sisters’ and how he prohibited an catholic from further blaming jews for the death of Christ. We also observed the colums surrounding the catherdral and how with unparalleled precision Bernini was able to make the 4 column deep structure seem as only one column when standing in a certain spot in the st peters square (which is really an oval). Overall I found the tour very interesting. I haven’t confirmed the validity of everything of what the tour guide was saying but the concepts in any case were very thought provoking. After the vatikan I took the subway 2 stops to the piazza del popolo and walked down to the Spanish steps. Enroute a purchased a very Italian sweatery/furry jacket. And a slice of pizza. I finished my pizza and was about to walk on when I saw a sign for a John Keats Museum. I remembered my highschool english teacher (McCall) was a huge keats fan so I decided I would stop inside. I listened to a brief history of keats and wandered across the museum. He had a tough life; his father died when he was 8 one brother died later and another moved away, and keats himself died in hes 20s (1795-1821) from turburculossis. But many of the beautiful verses he wrote in his last couple years became famous after his death. Here is a quick example of his impressive romantic prose:

“I have been astonished that men could die martyrs for religion – I have shuddered at it. I shudder no more – I could be martyred for my religion – Love is my religion – I could die for that.” [John Keats]

After the museum I walked to the piazza novena then the pantheon and from there I decided to visit the synagogue. Coincidentally marissa, rivka and jaime were there as well. We chated for a while and despite the fact that it was dark and raining I decided to walk towards the coliseum. I really had no where to go, so I just walked around to kill time before returning to foyer of the apartment building where the second hostel was. While walking I thought I saw a familiar face and sure enough at second glance I recognized Dave, a friend from NU. We walked and talked and it turned out that him and another friend of mine from NU, Juliet were living together in Rome for study and coop. I asked if I could spend the night and they said it was no problem. Meanwhile my bag was still hopefully safe at the hostel. For dinner Juliet made a great spaghetti meatball dinner and the 3 of us shared a great bottle of Italian wine. I slept comfortably on their couch.

24. January

Got up around 8:30 and walked toward the Coleseo (coliseum). I first stopped at Piacenza vienecia a magnificent building stood right in the middle of the piazza with large statues topping each wing of the bldg. I walked by the ruins of the forums and approached the coliseum. For the 3rd time now I bumped into the 3 girls from nyc. Again we spoke briefly and then I entered the coliseum. An amazing structure dating back tot the first century AD by jewish slaves and funded by money looted from jews in an earlier war. After the coliseum I continuted on to the palatino, ruins of an old palace. I took the metro one stop to Termini and had a great piece of pizza (mushroom, artichoke, and a some special sauce). Back at 2 ducks hostel I picked up my bag and saw Lynn again. We spoke for a while then I began walking back towards termini to grab a train to Florence.

I arrived in Firenze (Florence) and walked to the hostel ‘emerald fields’ but it was unfortunately booked but since I called before the owner called a firend that owned a 1star hotel nearby and offered me a special rate for the night a couple more euros than the price of a hostel. I dropped my bags at the hostel and walked to Basilica Santa Maria a beautiful church with an impressive dome (duomo) I walked up the small staircases and hallways till I got to the top and admired the close up view of the dome and birds-eye view of Florence. I walked around a bit and made my way to Galleria dell Accademia where I saw michalengalo’s David sculpture. Of course I have seen fotos and videos of it many times but nothing compared to its awesomeness in real life. I then grabbed dinner at a Za-Za a place recommended to me by the a worker at my hotel. I ordered the rabbit dish and a glass of wine. Before calling it a night I went for a walk and picked up a liter of milk as I suddenly had a huge craving for milk. (this was great milk, it tasted like boiled milk.) I went to an internet café checked some email, finished the milk and went back to the hotel and slept like a king till morning.

25. January

After a quick exercise (I have been keeping up with the 50 push a day rule even while on vacation.) and a shower and I was out by 9 am. I grabbed a chocolate chip scone and from the bakery across the street I walked to ponte vecchio, the most picturesque bridge in Florence. I walked across it and just kept walking until I was off my tourist map. Eventually I was walking through a very relaxed residential area, a beautiful place I could easily picture myself living in. at that moment I decided to postpone my trip to Venice till the next day to give me some more time in Florence. I stopped in a asmall café for a coffee which normally comes as an expresso shot in italy. I walked back to my hotel and pricked up my bags and walked to the hostel and booked a room. I walked to the Uffizi gallery picking up a gelato on the way. Wasn’t a hufe fan of the Uffizi, well actually the building was incredible and the ceiling was beautiful throughout, I am just not that into renaissance art. After the iffizi I cam here to a small resteraunt where I am updating my journal while eating small bruchetta and enjoying a glass of wine.

Walked around a bit more through Florence and stopped in the internet café I had been to before. I walked back to the hostel and chatted for a while. I decided to go to dinner with Sarah, Dan and Sjure. Each an interesting character in their own respect. Dan was from Oregon, he was traveling through Europe and decided to stay in Florence and got a job at the hostel, he was 23. Sjure was from Norway. He was tired of working in the uncreative atmosphere of his work so he quit and moved to berlin for a couple months to clear his head and decide what he wanted to do next. He would return to Norway without a job and without an apartment and make a fresh start. Sara was a student in Florence but enjoyed the city and decided to stay and changed her major from political something to culinary arts. She started university at the age of 15 so she was only 18 and she acted like she was 30. she is originally from LA. The resteraunt we went to called ‘pit-stop’ was fantastic. I got a pizza ‘fruchti del mar’, a pizza wit sauce and basically everthing from the bottom of the ocean; mussels, shrimp, calamari etc…the best fork and knife pizza I have ever had. I topped off dinner with the best tiramsu I have ever had. Little cubes of tiramusa cake covered in cream. Fantastic meal!

26. January

The next morning I got up later than usual, around 10ish. Ready to depart to the next city. On my way to the train I ordered a Panini that was at the choice of the chef, basically whatever the chef wanted to put in it, he did. It was great, a little spicy but it kicked the morning off well. I took the train to Venice. Upon arrival I began my walk to the hostel. Through the winding streets and over the bridges following the scrap of directions that I had jotted down on a tiny piece of paper that morning in Florence. At the entrance to the hostel I met ‘Shino’ from brazil, living in London with plans to move to Australia. He had already been traveling for 2 months and had 1 month left. We were waiting for the hostel to open after the mid-day pause. Soon after ‘Ben’ a tall guy with a shaved head, leather jacket and serious boots, showed up. He was a firefighter from Brooklyn. Non of us had booked a room, so the three of us just waited in the hope that we would get a bed. We met the 3 Australians at the hostel during the wait when they invited us to there room to avoid the cold wild waiting. We went to the hostel office at 5pm when they opened and luckily enough we all got rooms. Shino and I went for dinner I got a small zucchini and cheese pizza roll and Shino got a ricotta pizza of which he shared a generous amount with me. Around 7pm we met up with Ben and the Australians for a couple of drinks. Was quite reasonably priced at 1.60 Eur for a large glass so I stuck with that for the night.

27. January

The next morning Ben and I decided to explore the city together. It turned out Ben was Jewish. His parents had both converted to Judaism after meeting in a kibbutz in Israel. Ben studied at yeshiva for most of his grade school days. We walked around seeing San Marcos sq. and Ben mentioned he had gone to the synagogue last night and heard they do services and a Kiddush lunch today (Saturday) so we made our way to the Old Jewish Ghetto where the synagogue and small Jewish community was (about 400 Jews in Venice). There were different services, we went to the one held by the chabad, we’ll actually we missed services as we went to the wrong location, but we made it to the kosher resteraunt for Kiddush. We were graciously served a multi-course meal. Many of the people there were yeshiva students from Israel and were very friendly and were constantly making sure that we were satisfied. One of the meals were salmon and unknown to me we could not have fish and meat on the same tanle but we could have them in the same meal, so when the fish was finished they brought out the meat stew. I asked ben if he knew why. He wasant sure so he asked one of the yeshiva students. He began to conjure an answer: ‘its dangerous…in the torah it is written not to have meat and milk…” the chachamim have developed this further to no fish and meat on the same table as eating them together may also be unhealthy. But he admitted to never having tried eating them together at the same time. So he didn’t know for sure if it was unhealthy but as he repeated “because it is written” he followed. This exact response was another reason why have come to analyze the very basis of religion. I wouldn’t label this yeshiva student as a ‘fundamentalist’ but his actions aren’t much different. This yeshiva student followed a rule admittedly made by a man, albeit chachamim but none the less a man without question and curiosity. It is the same lack of question and curiosity which allowed for the tragedies of the holocaust, give power to fundamentalist leaders, and breed suicide bombers. I guess here the question becomes is it still bad to brainwash if ur teachings are more or less positive and harmless? And then of course we come to the ultimate: who decides what is positive or good and what is bad.

After lunch we took a bus/boat to murano an island famous for the glass work. We witness the incredible talent and skill the artists had when we saw the glass making in action, carefully adding gold leafing and intricate details to the glass slipper. After murano ben was heading back to Milan to meet up with his sister. I went back to the hostel. I went out for another quick walk about around Venice and located a nice restaurant. I went back to the hostel and Shino returned with me to the restaurant for dinner. I wanted something very traditional so I got a spaghetti Bolognese and a glass of wine. After dinner we stopped for a crepe. Before reaching the crepe place we were lost for a good while but it made the crepe all the better. I got nutella/banana , hands down the best crepe ever.

28. January

Got up around nine and walked to the train station with Shino. He was going to Florence. I got on my train to Milan. I thought I heard the guy across from me speak Farsi so I took out my Persian practicing exercises and immediatly he asked me where I was from. We began speaking in Farsi ( he didnt speak much english) I had no idea idea the type of story I was about to here…

Ali had spent the last 4 or five days in the cargo area of a truck from iran. He hadn’t eaten and drank only water. At tnight he got out of the cargo to get some water but when he retuned the truck was gone and with it all of his belongings in the truck. The truck driver had no idea Ali was in the cargo for the past couple of days. Ali had paid a man in iran who got him into the cargo which was headed from germany. Ali had no idea where he was but soon found out he was in Venice, italy. His contact in iran who got him on the truck gave him a cell phone with a limited sim card to make a call incase of emergencies. He called back to iran where he was told to get to Milan from where he could get easily to paris, where he had another contact to get him into London where he would live until he ma could earn enough money to move to America. He was running from the iranian government, who wanted to kill him. Ali was a frequent participant in the riots against the government and he spent a year helping American troops in iraq. Ali was offered a job by the American military but at the time he didn’t want to move to America. . however when he returned to iran he was informed by his friends that the government was looking for him. We spoke for a while. He told me many things that surprised me. First he said Iranians love president bush. The ones that hate the government in Iran are waiting for bush to bomb Iran like he bombed Iraq and liberate the Iranians the way he liberated the Iraqis. He said bush must stay in t iraq and if needed send more troops until a proper government is setup. I said many American claim the war was for oil. He replied; bush has acquired a deservable amount of oil considering the service he has provided. He went on tot say that bush was a very wise man because he was strategically targeted Afghanistan, and Iraq and he has already friended Iran’s other surrounding nations and bush has been aligning himself for an attack on Iran for a while and it would not be long until he “liberated” Iran through a series of bombings. I asked whether an internal uprising within iran would be a more effective way of overthrowing the gov. and liberating the people. but he said it would be however it is unfeasible. During small riots many are killed and imprisoned and its hard to make progress. Any money sent by Americans is squandered by greedy, corrupt, and weak leaders. Despite the fact that he had no more than the clothes on him and the money in his pocket ali didn’t seem to worried or scared about his future I invited him for lunch and after a customary taruf he agreed. We walked out of the trainstation in Milan however not much was open as it was Sunday. We found a quick Turkish doner place where we got kebab sandwiches. The man that got him in the cargo was able to get some of ali’s reserve money in iran from one of ali’s friends. Ali would go back to the trainstation to meet a man who was friends with the man in iran who helped him escape and get some money. We parted ways and I walked to the hostel.

I hadn’t booked a room but I had hoped there would be a spot. After finding the unmarked hostel on a graffiti ridden street I buzzed ad called but no answer. Another traveler showed up and we both waited after an hr or so a man poked his head out the window and after seeing us let us in. I confirmed my booking for tomorrow but decided to go to Piacenza to visit the other NU students. Jess met me at the train station and we walked back. And Jessica, Melanie, and I shared stories of school and of living abroad. It seemed as though we had shared many similar experiences. Jess and I got a slice of pizza and some gelato. One of the scoops of gelato I got was “half cold” a type of cross between whipped cream, frosting and fluff. It was great with my other scoop, nougat. We returned to the apartment and there other roommate returned and a couple of other friends and we exchanged a few more stores and then called it an early night.

29. January

Got up late around 10 and had a Panini and cappuccino with Melanie then grabbed the train to milano. The train didn’t take me to centrale so I got a 24hr pass and took the subway from Lambarte to centrale. And walked to the hostel and dropped my bags. The most unique hostel I have been to. The walls and furniture were all covered in graffiti and the backyard was a cross between a junkyard and a an art studio. And at 10 euros a night it pulled an interested crowd. I took the subway from the ‘Zara’ stop to duomo and saw yet another wildly impressive cathedral from there I just walked around without a target for a couple of hours until I was tired. Then I got on a bus which brought me to Lambarte where I had a quick plate of spaghetti in the ‘miro café’ at the recommendation of the bar tender I took the subway two stops to ‘larate’ where I wandered in and around of shops. I went to “muji” a store I had read about before. Known for its non-advertising, non-labeling, plain and simple style; a pretty cool store with an interesting approach. I walked around a but more until stores began to close and I got on the metro back to the ‘zara’ stop. Back at the hostel the light didn’t work in my room and my bunk mate was sleeping. I went to the common kitchen where a man was smoking dope. I had a brief conversation with him and a bored Korean student. Then I left to grab a bite for dinner. Many places were closed around the hostel. I went to a greek place and got a pita souvlaki. It was actually very, very good. I decided to call it an early night but didn’t get much sleep as my bunk mate snored the entire night at sound levels exceding the limits of my ipod.

30. January

Got up and had a Panini and capucinno for breakfast at a café on the wat to the train station. It was a bit early to head to the airport so I decided to find a gelato place one last time before I left italy. I found a nice place after a decent walk and oreded a cone of ‘macedonia’, basically a mix of kiwi, strawberry, lemon, and pineapple gelato. It was very refreshing. I then began my walk back to the bus and got on a bus to the Malpensa airport.

I was a couple of hrs early and sat in Terminal 2 for a while reading and I ate a slice of pizza. I keptwatching the check in coumter but it never oped for my flight. About 45 minutes before departured when It hadn’t opned I knew something was up…heres where it gets fun. After a closer examination I realize I was at the right check in at tehe wrong terminal. I grabbed the et bus which got me to the right check in at the right termaila about 5 mins aagter check in closed. My flight had not taken off yet so I rean to the te security ut without a boarding pass they wouldne let me kn. I was redirected to ticket sales where I was not able to get another glight until the net morning and at a cost of 200 euros. That’s about 1/3 of what my enture itlay had costed me thus far. HLX said they would refund the majority of my ticheket giving me a mere 30 euros. To top it, I need to vacte my apt by 12:00 noon on the 31ast (the next day) my flight that leasves Milan at 7am first goes to zurich then to Stuttgart, probably getting me to reutling at about 11:30…thinkgs weill get pretty exciting tomorrow. But shit happenes. And all and all I have enjoyed my time here in the airport….I have finished cover to voger reading a sepaical edition of the Spiegel magazine discuissing various relisions and there place in taodays societworld I have also made progress in my own writings, I ate a BK King XXL burger meal (I hate fast food but it was the only thing open so I figured, go big or go home), I did 200 pushups and I discovered a compfy area with couches where I will sleeeep or nap before my flight. Soon after relocating to my new spot a guy and a girl came over the girl napped and the guy and I played footbag (hackisack) at around 11pm we began talking and turns out e s a the best beat boxer in belgiu, and was in prague to judge a beat box battle and the even was sponsored by footbag companies. We talked for a while about his career, Belgium, politiks at about 3 I slept for a couple hrs and got up at 6 well before my flight, and I checked in and made home safe and sound.


Another inconceivably rewarding trip.

Türkei Journal

Pre-Departure: day 0

Saturday morning i mentioned to my neighbor, Kai, that i wanted to go to turkey over winterbreak. Sat. night we booked a flight that left a couple days later on Tuesday. I was interviewing on Monday for an internship and left sudnday during the day for Düsseldorf. Returning Monday evening, I began to pack and do some quick research on Turkey and how we might spend our 8 day trip. We also booked our first night hostel.


Day 1: Departure

Our flight was from München, about 3-4 hrs by train from Reutlingen. Once at the maintrainstation in munich we transferred to the strassebahn turned out the strassebahn we were on didn’t go to the airport, it was on an everyother schedule. We weren’t the only ones who had not realized. So we met another man who was also trying to get to the airport. Turned out that he was going to turkey on the same flight as well. After a little bit of rushing we got back on track and made it to the plane. The plane was packed, and grossly uncomfortable and in the row next to use was a baby that would not stop crying, but between my excitement of this impromptu trip and the great back I was reading (Siddhartha) the flight overall went quite well. Upon landing we witnessed the customary applause, a nice local tradition. Our flight landed us in Antalya, a city in the southern Turkey. A major summer travel destination for Germans and Israelis. At passport control, Kai went through no problem with his Malaysian passport and when I was about to walk through the controller told me I need a visa. For a second my heart dropped. I was worried that I would not be able to enter. Moments later he informed me I could buy my visa at one of the other desks. With this 20 EUR purchase I was given a sticker, and the trip continued. After grabbing our bags we went outside of the airport and saw a sign for Sabah Pension (the hosel that we booked for our first night) we opted to have them pick us up from the airport since we were coming in late in the evening and it seemed like a reasonable price. The driver didn’t speak any english or german and he seemed to be a huge rush. Before we knew it we were driving through narrow and dark streets. No sign of any life at all. We began to see sings for many Pensions (hostels). Every couple store fronts had a sign for a pension. Me made it to Sabah Pension. A hostel completely run by a Turkish family. The brothers (about 30 and 40) switched between check-in and running tours, the mother cooked traditional Turkish meals, the father was always around but im not sure what his job was. We were satisfied with the 10EUR a person cost that got us a double room with a bathroom and breakfast.

Day 2: Antalya

After taking a freezing cold shower (I think Kai used all the warm water!), actually wasn’t really much of a shower, more like a shower head between the sink and the toilet and a drain in the ground of the bathroom. I enjoyed a simple and satisfying breakfast prepared by mrs. Sabah. Bread, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, some orange and a boiled egg. And of course some Turkish tea. We walked down a road in Kalechi (the name of the old city in Antalya, and the area around our hostel) towards the new city. On our way we were stopped by a shop keeper. We stopped and spoke with him for some time as we had come to learn Turkish people often stopped potential customers. Even if u make clear that u do not want to purchase anything, they seem happy enough with a nice conversation, and the chance for them to practice their english. We spoke with a shop worker named ‘hagi’ he seemed to be very excited with us and we assured him we would stop by that evening upor our return to our hostel. We continued walking towards the new part of the city and through the mini-bazars. We spent the day walking around the city and getting acquainted with our new surroundings. We found ourselves at the harbor where we decided to talk a boat trip around the harbor. We shared the boat with an Israeli couple. We then decided to walk to the beach. After a long day of walking we indulged ourselves in a full course dinner. I had a mixed grill dish, for appetizers we got a bread dish with some dipping sauces, calamari and shrimp scampi. Toped with a glas of wine, the meal was a great end to our first day. On the way home we stopped by Hagis store. The store was closed but he was sitting outside with his buddies smoking nargile. We were pretty tired but they insisted that we stay. We stayed listed to some music and shared stories.

Day 3: Pummukale

We packed our bags, grabbed a quick breakfast and began our trip to ‘Pummakale’. We got to Denizli by 2pm then we took a dolmush (minibus) to Pummakale. In our excitement we left or bags in the luggage compartment of the dolmush. After about five minutes of walking towards pummukale we realized we had only our small bags with us. I was pissed for about 30 seconds then I came to grips with the fact that with or without the bags I was going to have a great time in Turkey. Plus I had all of my important (passport, wallet) on me. We went back to the corner where the bus droped us off and met a shop keeper that spoke english. And he found a man who worked with the bus company. He radioded the operater and we described what our bus driver looked like. After some time our bags were located and we were informed that they could bring our bags to us in about 1 hour. The ironic part was, the entire day people had offered to hold our bags for us (at the denizli bus station, resteraunt owners, etc…) they said it would be diffucult to climb up pummukale with bags on and we could easily leave them and pick them up later. We thought it was best to keep our bags with us so we could ensure their safety and no soon after we leave them on the bus….while waiting for our bags to return I went to get a quick bite and remove myself from the high pressure zone waiting for the bags, Kai was a little stressed about the bags at this point. I ordered a lamachum (Turkish pizza). After ordering I pointed to something on the counter and asked what it was, the store owner said nothing, smiled and cut me a piece of what seemed to be long rice noodles drenched in honey. While waiting for the pizza I saw a backgammon set and asked another store employee (Jakob) if he would teach me how to play (I had bought a backgammon set in Antalya but I did not know how to play). Jakob didn’t speak any english but began to teach me how to play. It was an intense lesson with lots of hand gestures and figure counting. After the game I thanked Jakob and gave him money in excess of the price of the pizza to cover any cost of the rice noodle dessert as well as a small tip for introducing me to the rules of backgammon. He smiled and shock my hand but would not accept any more than the price of the pizza, the equivalent of about 1 EUR. By the time we got our bag it was 3pm. The hot spring pool at the top of pummukale closed at 5pm. We husseled on up the hill a hike which required us to remove our shoes and walk up the calcium covered hill and through the warm springs of water. It was truly a magnificent site. At the top we entered the hot springs we swam for about one hr. but had to cut our swim short because I had a telephone interview at 5pm. At about 5 min past 5pm my phone rang and I interviewed with 3 men over the phone while watching the sunset at the top of pummukale. By the end of the call it was quiet dark and cold. We hiked back down the same way that we came up, except this time in the dark and it was much colder. Back in the town center of pummukale we stopped for dinner. At dinner we met 3 french travelers and a traveler from Switzerland. The man from Switzerland was just “stopping through” turkey about 2 months. After doing some ‘light’ travel in Africa for the last 4 yrs! He has had malaria 3 times and normally slept “in the bush”. The guys from france were planning on taking a night train to Istanbul that night, same plan we had. We got on the same 12 hr overnight from denizli.

Day 4: Istanbul

Arriving in the morning we took the ironic recommendation from our new French friends to stay in the ‘paris hostel’. After dropping our bags we decided to explore the city. We visited the blue mosque, aya Sophia, and topkapi palace. At the aya Sophia and topkapi palace we kept seeing the same group of kids around 7-10 yrs old on some sort of field trip. They were very excited when they found out we spoke english and they took the chance to yell any of the few english words they knew to us. “hello hello!, is nice to meet u!” these kids were really funny and entertaining. We continued our exploration and made it to the grand bazaar. I bought a thin carpet that could be used to top sheet on my bed, a pair of slippers made from leather and carpet, and lastly a straight edge barber style razor for shaving. The bazaar was a very interesting experience. Lots of bargaining and lots of meeting interesting characters. Rule of thumb in the bazaar: no matter what price they quote u, don’t offer to pay more than 25%. Another thing to note is anything price in turkey is negotiable, from dinner in a restaurant to bus tickets. After a long day of bargaining, shopping and walking we stopped a kebap house near our hostel for some tradition Turkish food. Halfway though our meal two girls came in speaking english and sat next to us. They were very friendly and after brief conversation it turned out they were on study abroad as well in france and italy, and originally from boston. After a quick shower kai and I met up with our new American friends, kamille and Katherine. We went to a hookah bar and got seated in a cozy back room that already had a couple regulars sitting and talking. We drank some tea with our nargile and spoke to the other men in the room for a while. The Turkish men in the room were extremely entertaining, turned out they all spoke many languages, one gentleman in particular, Mahmat, spoke 11 languages but he had never left the country before! The girls were tired and set on returning to their hotel, I proposed to everyone in the room that we should go to ‘Taksim’ (an area in Instanbul Kai and I had not yet been, and well know for its night life). Out of the group only Mahmat agreed to come. I insisted we walk in order to get a better understanding of the area despite my lack of warm clothing and the distance to taksim. After about an hour of walking (many times unsure of our safety, with our new found tour guide leading us through small alley streets while calling many friends and talking to them in Russian. however our suspicions turned out to be unfounded.) we made it to the road that lead up to Taksim sq. and were shocked by the amount of people. We stopped by a group of pan-handeling student musicians playing drums, a santoor and a guitar. It was here that kai met and spoke to the new found love of his life, Chacheck. We passed another group of students playing guitar and mahmat asked if himself and kai could use there guitars and get in on a little jam session. After a quick song we continued around taksim, we grabbed a quick bite but we were all quite tired and decided to grab a taxi back to the hostel.

Day 5: Istanbul

After breakfast at the hostel kai and I walked through the spice market and continued walking through another street bazaar that seemed to be filled mostly with locals. We continued through this bazaar as well until eventually we found ourselves once again in the grand bazaar. We had heard about some underground village but were not certain if we had mis-heard. We asked one man and he just pointed in a direction and without a map (we had ‘lost’ our turkey book the second or so day of the trip) we just walked. We found ourselves in an unknown area and nobody else had heard about this underground village so we decided to a follow a sign that led us back to taksim. While walking I asked a man if we were in the right direction for taksim, and he answered my in Persian. Then I responded to him in Persian, and we walked together while he explained different parts if Istanbul to me. We got on a bus with him and we got off at taksim, the Persian man (mehram) was staying on the bus for a later stop. After a quick bit to eat kai proposed we go to Dom Abache. He nor I had any idea what it was, but kai said he thought it was important. We asked around for the direction to dom abache and walked there. Once we got there we found out what it was. It was the palace where sultans used to live and was now a museum, an incredible place. We joined an english tour in dom abache. We went back to Taksim and split a Kokorec’ sandwich. We walked back to our hostel. And on the way kai feed his desire for a fresh fish sandwich at a small place near the river. After a slight detour (I got us a bit lost on the walk back) we ended up at the aquaduct where we had bumped into mehram earlier that day. We got back on track and walked towards our hostel. We grabbed a banana each and kai and I both agreed, it was the best banana either of us had ever eaten. Also on the walk home I bought a pair of wool longjohn type pants from a homeless looking man sitting on the side walk to prepare for our next destination (Kappadokia) which I heard was quite cold. At the hostel we grabbed our bags and took the tram to the otogar. We got on an overnight bus to Kappadokia. The bus ride was quite weird as the bus stewards (there bus stewards on long rides in turkey, similar to airplane stewards they give drinks snacks and coffee) kept taking our personal snacks and eating them. While kai was sleeping one of the stewards grabbed kai;s box of Pringles and my bag of badum (almonds) and went to the back of the bus and at them while they watched a movie. Once I realized I got the almonds and what was left of the Pringles back. It was super random, really some weird stewards.

Day 6: Kappadokia

Arriving in kappadokia we were hoping to get a good recommendation of how to spend the day, as we had not prepared anything nor really spoken to anyone as far as what to do there. We were directed to a travel tours office. At the first bus station. We weren’t left with much of an option as it was the only group travel office there, and we were 20 mins by dolmush from the kappadokia town center (which we later found out was really just a group of resteraunts near each other). We signed up for the day trip. On the bus tour we stopped at ihlara canyon, the underground city, and selime. The underground city was made up of 8 different levels underground and was a maze of caves and rooms, truly incredible. Selime was a nunch of homes built into the rock structures from volcanic eruptions, this place was my favorite on the tour. I also found a jaw bone of some animal, maybe a goat or something near selime, currently my favorite souvenir. On the tour we met 2 japanese students as well as a man from Israel. The man from Israel (Erev) was at the end of yr and half of travel through Asia and Indonesia. After the tour we went for dinner. I was set on eating kebab-pottery per Hagis recommendation in Antalya (hagi’s family came from kappadokia). It was a dish were they put meat and vegatables in piece of pottery and seal it. The put it in the oven. Before serving it they break the top off and pour it onto ur plate. In the restaurant we bumped into a Singaporean couple that we had met earlier in turkey at the top of kappadokia, then again at denizli and noe for the third and shocking time in kappadokia. the 2 japanese kids from our tour that day happened to choose the same resteraunt we had, and minutes later the Erev, the Israeli man came in with a friend (Okurm) he had met (a student from Istanbul). The japenese students left early to grab a bus. Erev also left to grab a bus to his next destination. Kai Okrum and I went to a local gaming spot where we played backgammon and drank some Tea. After learning some backgammon strategy from Okrum (or ‘Ok’ as he told us to call him) we went to a nearby bar that looked like a little cave. We got a bottle of wine and just talked, it was very relaxing, and Ok was a very smart and interesting person. Time flew by and before we knew it kai and I realized we only had a few minutes to grab our bus. We ran and couldn’t find the bus stop but we knew it was close by. We saw a group of 3 people walking around and we asked where the bus station was they said it was close by and they would take us there, (they were 3 students and seemed intoxicated, after celebrating Christmas eve with some drinks) we told them we only had a minute or two, and they started sprinting to ensure we wouldn’t be late. As kai and I kept up with them running we made it to the bus just in time. We boarded another overnight 10hr bus ride to Antalya.

Day 7: Olympos

Upon our arrival back in Antalya we were not exactly sure what we wanted to do. Before we had left Hagi and his friend had offered to to go with us to all od the top locations around Antalya for the cost of gas plus a little but because the destinations were so far it would have costed about 80 EURs a person, well out of our budget for a one day trip. On last minute decision we decided to go to Olympos. About 1.5 hrs form Antalya it seemed to make sense since we were already at the bus station. Olympos is known for its archeological and natural sites as well as beautiful beaches. We took a bus to the main bus stop in olympos which was really just a resteraunt in the middle of no where. While waiting for the next dolmush that would take us closer to the beach we at a quick breakfast, Turkish pancake and omlette. the dolmush took us down the main st. in olympos. A street littered with ‘tree-house’ and camping hostels. An are that I am sure is packed with backpackers in the summer, but in this winter season it was like a ghost town. We walked through the beautiful nature of olympos and through the archeological sites to the beach. At the beach we were more or less the only people on the coast as far as the eye could see. Once in a while some people would walk by. We dropped our bags and lost some weight and decided to go for a quick swim. The water was cold but refreshing. And because of the amount of overnight buses we hadn’t taken a shower since Istanbul, so it was nice to get into the water. After the swim we just relaxed on the beach for a bit. While kai was grabbing his towel he came across our “lost” book on turkey. we got back on the dolmush to the Olympus bus stop. The took another bus to Antalya bus station, then got back on the public transportation to Kalechi. We grabbed a filling sandwich and a drink for the normally low price of 2 lira (1 eur). We walked back to Sabah pension, and saw Hagi outside his store. We stopped and his friend brought us out some apple tea. We drank tea and showed him fotos of our travels. Especially the ones from his homeland Kappadokia. We continue don’t to Sabah but this time we were deteremined to get a better price, as we had spent more than expected in the past week, and because whe had learned a bit more about how things are priced in turkey. We went back and named a price of half of what we had been paying before and organized a ride to the airport for half of the original cost. We got our room for 5EUR a person with breakfast. After a quick shower we decided to go out for a quick dinner. I had wanted to try a couple food items in turkey that I had seen but not gotten a chance to eat so we did a running dinner, going from one place to the next sampling dishes. We first split a Kumpir. A huge potato (biggest I have seen) the pototae is baked and the insides is turned to mash potatoe with butter and cheese then u choose any toppings and veggies to add to the inside. We added mushroom, fish, broccoli, corn yougurt sauce and ketchup. After the kumpir we went to another restaurant and grabbed the mussel dish. They were litely seasoned with some curry type flavoring and filled with a bit of rice and a good bit of lemon, very fresh tasting. We then stoped at McYorbus, because it was a knock-off type mc donalds. Grabbed a burger, it was actually quiet good. On the way back we grabbed a slice of cake for dessert (tiramisu) it was ok. And we played a game of Tabli (backgammon).

Day 8: Back Home

After breakfast at Sabah we went for a walk. I bought a bottle of Raki. A traditional Turkish drink made form anas similar to greece’s ouzo. We got a ride to the people at sabah pension and got on our flight to münchen, the took the train back to Reutlingnen. Home sweet home.

red eye

just got back from an extended weekend trip to the west coast to celebrate my cousins barmitzvah. it was quite an adventure 20 min bus to bus station 1 hr bus to airport 14 hr flight to the OC. then back again a couple days later. but in all honestly the time spent traveling is insignificant compared to the amount of enjoyment i had over the few days. i have always felt that there is no better way to spend time than with family. on another note time is flying by. honestly. i feel like i just got to Germany but i am already searching for co-ops. meaning i will be done with my first semester here soon. only a couple more semesters till i graduate college, ridiculous. my new focus is on gaining as much knowledge as possible. there is an overwhelming amount of knowledge at my finger tips with internet and books, i just cant seem to absorb all the information fast enough. a small side project i am working on is a time line of the world since creation, but focused around topics that interest and affect me. it may sound silly, but there is so much information and without a way of putting it in perspective there is no way to truly understand anything. here is a quick example: 4.5 billion BC the earth and its solar system was created. scientists have dated the oldest sign of life to 3 billion BC. then jumping all the to 65 million BC we have the oldest known dinosaur. just try and imagine the evolution of the first bacteria into the eventual dinosaur, hard to image but now consider the billions of years it had time to take place. then tens of millions of years later the first sign of humans show up. as humans we are such a small part of the history of the world. then in 70,000 BC man made fire. and it wasnt till 60,000 years later that man made the wheel. of course these facts are based on the findings of scientists and paleontologists and of course are subject to error, but they are the best figures we have to date based on the collaborative intelligence of experts, and I accept there findings. that was a random tangent….but some food for thought.



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